I really hope it doesn’t seem like I lead a boring life when you read this, because that certainly isn’t the case. Nonetheless, one of the more exciting text messages I have received lately was from a friend wondering what to do with a log of goat cheese. Oh, the ideas, the beautiful thoughts that filled my head in response to this question! The cravings that ensued, the recipes I thought up!
Goat cheese has been a constant in my life, like Desmond and Penny on Lost, except with a lot less boating, drama, romance, and suspense. On good days and bad ones, at times when I had to eliminate cow’s milk (among other delicious things) from my diet—goat cheese was always there to spruce up a salad or make fancy a slice of rustic, crusty bread. Which means I promptly responded with an obscene number of paragraph-long text messages detailing my ideas. Use it as a cream cheese replacement. Sprinkle it on salads. Spread it on sourdough toast with honey and walnuts. Melt it into mashed potatoes. Or make drop biscuits, like these ones!
I am convinced that the two things that will always be good, no matter what form they are in, are goat cheese and brown butter. One of my favorite tricks is to put brown butter in places you wouldn’t expect it. It adds nutty, toasty flavor, gorgeous, golden color, and rich, buttery depth to baked goods. You must make sure you scrape the little burnt-brown pieces from the pan, because they form dark, perfect specks of flavor in the tangy, goat cheese-chive batter. Top with fleur de sel before baking, if you desire–my darling Daniel insists they’re even better that way. But for me, it just doesn’t matter. Nothing beats a goat cheese-infused biscuit straight out of the oven, ensconced in melting, salted butter and heavenly poofs of steam.
Brown Butter, Goat Cheese, and Chive Drop Biscuits
Makes 8 biscuits
4 tbsp unsalted butter
2 cups all-purpose flour
3 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
2 tsp granulated sugar
3.5-4 oz goat cheese log, chilled and cubed
1 1/4 cups buttermilk
2 tbsp chives, thinly sliced
fleur de sel, for sprinkling (optional)
Place butter in saucepan on medium-high heat to melt. Continue to melt until butter begins to bubble and turn brown. Scrape melted butter (and the brown bits at the bottom of the saucepan) into a bowl and refrigerate for 2-3 hours, or overnight. When the brown butter is solid once more, slice into ½-inch cubes and set aside. Preheat oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit. Spray a baking sheet with cooking spray and set aside. Whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and sugar. Add brown butter cubes and goat cheese. Use your hands to rub the butter and goat cheese into the dry ingredients until combined (the mixture should be mostly moist crumbles). Add buttermilk and chives and stir until dough forms. Use a ¼ cup measure to scoop each biscuit onto baking sheet. Sprinkle with fleur de sel (optional) and place in oven. Bake for 12-14 minutes, or until golden brown with moist crumbles. Biscuits are best straight out of the oven, but can be eaten within 24 hours (just warm in a low oven and serve).